Erg Chebbi Dunes in the Sahara Desert, Merzouga, Morocco

 

An amazing day in Southern Morocco

It started like any other day, waking up in a super comfortable bed after a great night's sleep, the kind that almost makes you forget where you actually are.  It was nearing sunrise and I quickly realized that sunrise over the Sahara Desert was not to be missed.  Besides, when will I ever be in this part of the world again in my life.  And while the sunrise was not quite as epic as the sunset, it was still incredible to watch the day come to life while we enjoyed another large meal at our "Luxury Tent Camp" on the edge of the Erg Chebbi Dunes in Southern Morocco. 

Sunset from Beldi Camp

We had arrived the afternoon before and because it is such a long drive from anywhere in the country, finally being there was a reward in itself, but the sunset over the dunes that night was truly something magical to behold. There were only two other people in the entire camp, so it almost felt private.  On our second night, we were the only guests.  After dinner, our first night, the guys there even did a drum circle and some singing around the fire.  I think it is fairly common at most camps because we could hear others in the distance after ours was finished and it was nice to be in bed early after a long day on the road with a full day in front of us.  

Sounds of the Sahara

Sunrise at Beldi Camp

Traffic in the Sahara

Walking in the ultra-fine sand at sunrise

As far as Sahara Desert Luxury camps go, given of course that I had no frame of reference and way too many to choose from, we were very happy with our choice. We ended up at Luxury Beldi Camp Merzouga.  And while it might not have been quite the luxury experience as portrayed, our hosts were such nice young guys that it more than made up for anything it lacked.  "Luxury", after all, is in the eyes of the beholder.  It was however, very tastefully decorated, clean, and comfortable, especially considering where we were.  Unfortunately for them, it was also super slow at the camp due to many canceled reservations from the earthquake.  For us, it worked out perfectly, since they were nice enough to give us each our own tent. 

Beldi Camp, Erg Chebbi, Merzouga, Morocco

Our adventure day started with the 4x4 drive back to the hotel where we had met the camp host the day before, which in itself was an experience. The guys had clearly done that drive a time or two before and didn't hesitate to go off track a few times.  It was there we met our guide for the quad tour up into the dunes.  I don't remember his name, but once again, we were the only two on the tour. 

ATV Tour

The quad trip through the dunes was nothing short of spectacular.  It certainly helped that we had a crystal clear day, although it was certainly good and warm out.  The first 20 minutes or so took us out of the hotel area and up into the dunes on what seemed like a main road.  It wasn't long, however before we started blazing our own trail.  We stopped a few times for some pictures and video, and to rinse the 'Sahara Sand' out of a parched mouth.  We only went outside his path a little, but we were definitely blazing our own trail most of the time.  While I think there are certainly areas you can and cannot ride due to environmental concerns, we had plenty of space to feel like we were 'out in it'.   Besides, when the wind picks up, as it did in the afternoon, all those tracks will be gone!

Endless Dunes at Erg Chebbi

The Erg Chebbi Dunes are meant to be some of the most spectacular in the world,  and although I think they are only a few miles wide by 10 or 15 north to south when you're in it, it feels endless.  We did not see another soul the entire time.  In total, we were out there for only a couple of hours, but because it was just so empty and massive, it seemed longer. I'll let the photos tell the story of the sheer feeling of the vastness it left behind. 

After the quads, we settled into the hotel area to relax around the pool a bit, which was great, right up until the wind started.  And while, by their standards, it was hardly a 'storm', that Sahara Sand gets everywhere quickly, and without a face covering it began to get difficult to even breathe.  

Nice little windstorm

Lunch was the call at that point and although it was a menu of two options, at least they had cold drinks. Word of advice, when they say 'Moroccan Pizza' just order one.  It's massive.  Two of us could not finish what could only be described as a stuffed mystery meat pie with onions, tomatoes, olives, and who knows what spices, complete with a trough of salad.  If I'm being honest, I take a bit of pride in trying the local food, but this one was not my cup of tea.  However, being the only option, you do what you have to do to get by.  Half of the idea of eating as much as we could was to not waste food or look bad in front of the locals, then our camp host said he could eat a whole one on his own. I'm not sure what the deal is with portion sizes in this part of the world, but every meal we had there was waaaaay too much. 

After lunch, we had about four hours to wait until our camel trek back to camp.  The restaurant was the only place air conditioned, sort of, but at least it was cooler than anyplace else around.  The wind started howling outside anyway, so basically we hunkered down until it was time to leave. Travel does that to you once in a while, when it gives you stretches of time or experiences that you can't get out of and you just have to grin and bear it. 

I think our camel trek started around 4 or 5pm and I didn't realize we were basically walking back to camp until we were almost there.  The wind was a factor in the beginning for sure, but our guide was great at showing us how to wrap our turbans to keep the sand out.  If you have before,  you'll know that getting on and off a camel is no simple thing, just hold on tight!  

The long slow walk across the dunes and back to camp was just that, long and slow.  It was definitely cool to ride the camels in the Sahara ( ✓), but I was happy it was over by the time we got off those camels.  The scenery was spectacular and the wind even died down a bit as we went along.  As we neared camp, we took a break to get off the camels and watch the spectacle of sunset. With the wind whipping across the top of the dunes, it wasn't as crystal clear as it had been the night before, but still a very cool experience.  That was my second experience on camels and I figure that's probably enough.  I was sore for three days! HA

The 'not so smooth' camel ride

Back at camp, it was very quiet.  No other guests and we cautioned our hosts that a small meal would be fine!  The next day we were up and out and on to the next adventure at Ait Ben Haddou.  Overall the experience of the Erg Chebbi Dunes was one I will not soon forget.  It felt a bit like being on another planet, not just because it's so far away from everything in the country, but out there with just the stars and sand to keep you company, it made me wonder what life on Mars will be like for humans someday.  Although not easy to get to and with other 'dune experiences' closer to the main tourist areas and definitely some moments of WTF, I would still highly recommend this once-in-a-lifetime experience for anyone with a sense of adventure and some time to spend in Morocco.  

Last night Star Trail